I’m sitting with Marie Greatrix of The Elmbrook Farm and Lucas Sorbara of Edwin County Farms, talking over the roaring success of the Picton Town Hall Farmers’ Market, now in its fifth season.

“We can’t quite believe it. We’ve never seen it like this,” says Mr. Sorbara. “It’s jammed every single Sunday.” Over 500 people mill about on a typical morning, sampling the vinegars, listening to live music, enjoying a falafel sandwich, and snapping up fresh mushrooms and bok choy. All the bread is gone well before noon. Neither the bakers at The Royal or The Elmbrook Farm can keep up with the demand. As Ms. Greatrix notes, it means getting up at 3 in the morning.

The success is especially satisfying as it’s been a long road to re-establishing the Picton Farmer’s Market — one of the oldest in Canada. Market Lane first hosted one sometime in the 1830s.

This iteration was conceived six years ago by a joint team of farmers and County staff, in part to save the Picton Town Hall. “We would pay a nominal rent for the space and that would provide income for the building,” notes Mr. Sorbara. The first season of operation was 2021.

Mr. Sorbara dreamt of a European-style community space. “Eating together, living as a community, starts at the market across Europe,” he says. “If it’s done right, it’s the unofficial gathering place for the whole town.”

But as that founding group found out, “it’s really hard to be a farmer or a producer and run a market on the side,” remembers Mr. Sorbara.

They hired a business manager to run things, which helped, but over the next three years, a rift developed.

“We were trying to create one thing but the administration of the market and the spirit we wanted to bring to to it were not aligned.” That led to what Mr. Sorbara calls “a three-year struggle over the heart and soul of the market.”

Now, the farmers themselves are running things. A Working Group, composed of Hans Ning of Paper Kite Farms, Jordan Malka of Beacon Bike and Brew, and Mike Barns of Lambs Quarters Farms, along with Mr. Sorbara, cooperates on the fundamentals, while the business side is managed by Ms. Greatrix.

After last weekend’s successful Beer Garden, look out for the Tomato Sandwich Contest with Chef Charlotte Langley in August. The beloved Hot Sauce Competition returns in September. The season closes with a Harvest Market at the Crystal Palace in November.

Part of the issue was just learning what it takes to run a market. To be designated a Farmers Market of Ontario, for example, at least 51 percent of vendors must be growing edible produce, which means even flower growers do not qualify. “You have to limit the other vendors, and prioritize produce,” notes Ms Greatrix. But their first manager, worried about the bottom line, pulled in so many vendors the market was ineligible for official Farmers Market status, and edible produce gave way to soap, candles, craftwork — everything but locally grown food.

Now, the team has devised a vendor application to vet applicants, who must operate within 50km of Picton. They must also employ regenerative and sustainable farming practices.

Of the market’s 73 vendors, 53 percent are food farmers, Mr. Sorbara notes proudly. 47 vendors are there either every week or every other week. A further 26 occasional vendors ensure variety; the market has different offerings every time you come.

Canada imports 265,000 tonnes of produce from California every year. “As soon as you pick a vegetable, its enzymes start to break down,” Mr. Sorbara notes. “It’s very old by the time it gets here. At least a week and more likely two by the time it’s in your fridge.”

“If you get it from a local farmer, by the time it gets to you, it is, at most, three days old.” 

“And if you buy from a local farmer,” notes Ms. Greatrix, “you support the whole community. It’s win-win.” 

The team behind what is becoming Picton’s unofficial town square has plans to keep the County’s farm-to-table producers front and center all season long. After last weekend’s successful Beer Garden, look out for the Tomato Sandwich Contest with Chef Charlotte Langley in August. The much-loved Hot Sauce Competition returns in September. The season closes with a Harvest Market at the Crystal Palace in November.